Implementing greener chemistry in textile and leather manufacturing does not mean simple chemical replacement. It is necessary to examine entire lifecycles and production processes. Our expert Dr Jörg Schlatterer, Deputy Division Manager for OEKO-TEX® at Hohenstein, specialising in chemical management, limits, and regulatory compliance discusses how certifications like OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT support manufacturers in making more sustainable choices and addresses the financial and technical challenges they face.
OEKO-TEX®: How do you describe "green chemistry"?
Dr Jörg Schlatterer, Hohenstein: "Green chemistry" for me is a chemistry without negative effects. Therefore, I prefer the term "greener chemistry", which means chemistry with fewer negative effects. Maybe that sounds a bit like nitpicking, but as a scientist one has to be precise. Also, we need to differentiate between chemistry and chemical. The latter means just one specific substance, while chemistry rather refers to a process or several chemicals that are used together.
For me a greener chemical is exactly the same chemical, just more sustainable. It has the same inherent properties, but it might have less harmful contaminations or it’s produced in a more energy-efficient process, or in a factory with better wastewater treatment and fewer emissions.
Greener chemistry on the other hand is more holistic and means that the chemicals used in a certain process are less harmful for the environment as well as the people working with them, and that producing or using it leads to a smaller footprint in terms of CO2, water, land use and so on.
Additionally, when we speak about greener chemistry, we have to look at the whole lifecycle of the chemicals used, including the way they are produced and disposed of.
How can Green Chemistry be applied in the textile and leather industry?
Simply replacing one chemical with another, greener chemical rarely leads to greener chemistry or leads to only a little more sustainability. Chemicals are often used together with others in large and complex processes. So just replacing one with another is also often not possible.
Applying Green Chemistry rather means applying a more efficient chemical for the intended effect. Maybe a softener that has to be applied in smaller amounts, or chemicals that allow dyeing at lower temperatures. Or ones that biodegrade completely within a short time frame or can be separated from wastewater more easily. However, it often also could mean switching a whole process, e.g., from screen printing to digital printing – if the new process as a whole is more sustainable.
What kind of change is – in your opinion – most important for the textile and leather industry when it comes to chemicals?
I assume that for some manufacturers and facilities, simply switching to BAT (best available technique) processes that are up-to-date and state of the art would be an important step. And then, in each case, using greener chemicals.
This doesn’t mean manufacturers and facilities have to change their processes, so it can be done relatively quickly and easily. It means they should be using quality chemicals, with sufficient purity and fewer contaminants. For commodity chemicals or industrial chemicals, for example, buying virgin chemicals makes a big difference compared to second-life chemicals, as virgin ones are freshly produced with higher purity, while second-life come from recycling processes and often contain more residues and contaminants.
The downside of this approach is that it usually means higher costs for the industry, which leads to higher prices for the chemicals. It translates into higher prices for treated textiles and finally for the textile products and clothes we buy. Greener choices mean higher costs passed on by the industry and paid by the consumer. But shared by all, each only has to pay a little bit more.
How does OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT support green chemistry?
First of all, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT tests for harmful substances. This way we can rule out contaminations above a certain level. We also have a general ban on certain harmful chemicals and that definitely support greener chemicals.
Also, OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT requires a certain level of product stewardship and sustainability in production and facilities. Our customers need a quality management system, they need to train their staff, provide PPE and ensure proper waste disposal. This doesn’t directly affect the chemical itself, but for me this is also part of greener chemistry: chemicals are produced in a more sustainable way.
What are the challenges that manufacturers of chemicals are facing regarding green chemistry?
I assume that – especially for smaller companies – financial pressure is a real issue. Analytical tests are expensive, we know this. So, testing all raw materials for all possible contaminants is often not possible. And chemicals with higher purity, or fewer contaminants, are usually more expensive. This is definitely an issue for commodity or industrial chemicals, too, with the question of virgin or second life.
Switching to greener chemistry, not only greener chemicals, is often also a big investment. An investment that has to pay off. However, for us as a society, for the world, it always pays off to switch to more sustainable alternatives.
How can certifications such as OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT support manufacturers?
With Hohenstein’s years of experience in the field of harmful substances in textile and leather chemicals, we can make targeted spot checks. This way, not everything needs to be tested. Additionally, we have certified some chemicals that are used for producing other textile and leather chemicals. In this way, buying pre-certified raw materials can be an easy method of input control without expensive lab tests. If raw materials are free from contamination, the final product is less likely to be contaminated too.
With self-assessments or on-site visits, we guide companies towards more sustainable production. And with our certificate and the listing in the Buying Guide, they can easily show potential customers their efforts and achievements. Additionally, with an OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certificate, ZDHC MRSL conformance is usually given. This allows certified products to be advertised on the ZDHC Gateway, too.
What role does transparency play in driving the adoption of safer, more sustainable chemicals across the supply chain?
Transparency is the key. Starting with our targeted testing: the more we know about the chemical product that is to be certified, the more targeted our testing can be. Usually this means fewer tests. Or vice versa – less transparency means more tests, which might have been avoided with more information.
Additionally, only with clear communication about chemicals and their properties companies can choose the greener alternative. Without transparency, that choice is impossible. And this need for transparency continues through the whole supply chain until the finished product is in the shop. Only with transparency can we – the end consumers - make informed decisions towards a more sustainable world.
